Composite Research, Inc.

Composite Research, Inc.
Makers of Sundance, Sea Born, and Spyder Boats

Author: admin

Can I take my boat to any CRI dealer for service and support?

Yes! Understanding that you and your boat may relocate during the course of your ownership, we invite you to take your boat to any of our dealers for service and support. To find a dealer, simply use our online locator, and reach out the desired dealer to schedule service.

On the topic of awesome service and support, we always welcome your thoughts and ask that you share your opinion by completing our dealer feedback and review form found below.

How do I operate my aerated bait well?

This article is intended to provide general operational instruction for aerated bait wells found on Sea Born, Sundance, and Spyder boats.

Operation

Locate the rubber drain stopper(s) found inside the blue accessories pouch. See Figure 1

Next, open the desired bait well(s) and locate the drain opening at the bottom. Prior to starting the flow of water, firmly place the stopper in the bottom of the well. Next, locate the aerator spray head found near the top of the well. See Figure 2

Notice the spray head has a small black lever on top which may be turned 90° to the left which is the off position. To open the valve to the “on” position and allow the flow of water, turn the spray head to the center or inline with the spray head body. See Figure 3

To start the flow of water, from the console instrument panel, turn the Bait Well into the on position. Immediately, water should begin to fill the well chamber. Once water reaches the level of the overflow screen, located beside the spray head, water will begin draining overboard through the thru-hull drains located on the transom. See Figure 4

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Regarding baits, most need less water changes per hour than the pump will supply.  For example, shrimp and crustaceans need approximately 5 changes whereas fin baits need 7 to 10.  Unless the operator has reduced the fill rate, the pump head will supply about double the needed amount. Given this, typical use in most cases would position the fill lever at a 45 degree angle.

Regarding Dry Storage

If the lever is in the open position and the pump is turned off, water from the high speed pick-ups will flow into the well when the boat is running. If you intend to use the well for dry storage or as a drink cooler remember to close the lever to the 90 degree off position.

How to clean the caulk in my boat’s seams?

The “caulk” used in your CRI boat is a UV resistant, polymer sealant made specifically for permanent elastic seals.  Occasionally you may notice what appears to be mildew forming on the surface. This is actually hydrocarbons primarily from air pollution (typically auto exhaust) that forms a film on the surface of the sealant.

To clean, use mineral spirits and a soft cotton rag to scrub the sealant surface. Several applications may be required. Once clean, wash the area with a large amount of a degreasing liquid detergent (i.e. ”Dawn”) and plenty of fresh water.

Remember to use personal protective equipment such as solvent resistant gloves and protective eyewear.

Product Information



Sikaflex®-521 UV

Sikaflex®-521 UV is a multi-purpose, UV resistant, non-sag, elastic, one-part silane-terminated polymer sealant, which cures on exposure to atmospheric moisture to form a durable elastomer. Sikaflex-521 UV is solvent and isocyanate free.

Use

Sikaflex®-521 UV bonds well to a wide variety of substrates without the need for special pre-treatment and is suitable for making permanent, high strength elastic seals. Compatible substrate materials include wood, metals, (particularly aluminum including anodized components), sheet steels (including phosphated, chromated and zinc-plated components), metal primers and paint coatings (two-part systems), ceramic materials, fiberglass, plastics and glass.

Characteristics and Advantages
  • Very low VOC/solvent free
  • Silicone and PVC-free
  • Isocyanate-free
  • High electrical resistance
  • Resistant to aging and weathering

How do I request warranty service?

:: IMPORTANT :: BEFORE YOU SEEK WARRANTY SERVICES OR REPAIRS YOU MUST FIRST REGISTER YOUR BOAT.

Warranty Process

In order to request warranty services, you must first contact your local Sea Born, Sundance, or Spyder dealer. The dealer will work with you to schedule an appointment to review your issues and determine if grounds exist for a warranty claim. In the event warranty work is needed, the dealer will then submit a claim on your behalf. Once reviewed by our personnel, your claim will be approved, adjusted or disallowed.

Warranty Coverages


Hull
Stringers
Transom Core
Gel Coat Excluded
Spider Cracks Excluded

Console
Full Deck Liners
Ring Cap Liners
Gel Coat Excluded
Spider Cracks Excluded

Bilge Pump (1)
Aerator Pumps (1)
Raw or Fresh Water Pumps (1,7)
CRI Electrical Harness (2)
CRI Switches (2)
CRI Circuit Breakers (2)
Engine Brand Gauges (3,7)
Engine Controls (3,7)
Engine Harnesses and Cables (3,7)
Fiberglass Lids (4,7)
Plastic Lids
Plastic Rod Box inserts
Horn
Leaks – Plumbing (20 hrs.)
Leaks – Hydraulic Steer (10 hrs.)
Fuel Tanks
Fuel Tank Senders (7)
Hydraulic Steering Systems (5,7,8)
Manual Steering Systems (6,7,8)
Stereo Speaker Installation Only
Electronics Installation Only
Macerator Pump (7,8)
Trim Tabs Installation Only (9)
Power Pole Installation Only (9)
Windlass Installation Only (9)
Jack Plate Installation Only (9)
Mister Systems Installation Only (9)

Gel Coat Blister or Cracks
Gel Coat discoloration
Caulking discoloration
Cushion Mold (10)
Stainless Steel Corrosion
Corrosion of other metals
Wind Shield Breakage
Stereo and Speakers (9)
Chart Plotter or Fish Finder (9)
Radar (9)
Shipping Damage (11)
Trim Tabs or Switches (9)
Power Poles (9)
Windlass (9)
Jack Plates (9)
Mister Systems (9)
Decals
Propeller: Type or Pitch (14)
  1. Pumps damaged or fouled from debris or from running dry are explicitly excluded.
  2. Corrosion and/or damage by corrosion is excluded.
  3. Engine brand Gauges, Harnesses, Controls, Cables are warranted by the Engine Manufacturer and should be filed accordingly.
  4. Lids damaged by being unsecured while trailering are excluded.
  5. Hydraulic Steering system leaks are excluded after first 10 hours of use (by engine hours).
  6. Steering Cable corrosion is not covered. NFB Helm turning stiffness is covered for helm replacement only.
  7. Requires the original part be returned for testing by manufacturer for approval.
  8. Part Manufacturer may offer longer warranties directly to Dealer. CRI may assist communication with Vendors after CRI Warranty expires.
  9. For parts not covered by the CRI Warranty, CRI may assist Dealer in filing a warranty claim with the original part(s) manufacturer(s). In some states, governing law requires manufacturers to be the single point of contact for parts. In those States, CRI will file the needed claims on behalf of the Dealer during the Basic Warranty period for covered parts only. If a part is required to be returned, Dealer will ship the part to the address requested by CRI.
  10. Cushion Mold is covered for 9 months from the date the vessel is delivered to Dealer.
  11. Shipping Damage: Boats and Engines are extensively photographed once loaded for shipping. The dealer must inspect and document any damage, scratches, or missing items to include boat, motor, and trailer or components before unloading and file a claim with CRI within 48 hours.
  12. Parts will be shipped via standard ground. If Dealer or customer request Overnight Shipping, CRI will only cover the standard ground rate.
  13. CRI will pay a “Flat Rate Time Allowance” (per “Flat Time Card”) which is negotiated with dealer.
  14. Propellers are based on Engine Builder performance testing and should be used as a starting point. See Propeller Program for details.

Transferable 10 Year Limited Hull Warranty

Composite Research warrants that the hull, transom, and stringers shall be free from structural defects for a period of 10 years. Exceptions: The 10 Year warranty does not cover the gel coat nor any other components fastened or applied to the dash, hull or deck. Gel coat discoloration, blisters, and cracks are not considered structural defects.

Transferable 3 Year BASIC Limited Fiberglass Small Parts Warranty

Composite Research warrants some fiberglass small parts for a period of 36 months or 300 hours, whichever comes first. This warranty covers any repairs needed to correct defects in materials or workmanship of some fiberglass small parts and components such as liners, consoles, and ring caps. Fiberglass Lids & Gel Coat are not covered under 3 Yr. Basic.

Transferable 1 Year BASIC Limited Systems Warranty

Composite Research warrants Fiberglass Lids, Plastic Lids, Electrical Panels, Bilge Pumps, Aerator Pumps or other Electrical Devices (excluding corrosion), (excluding Stereos, Depth Finders, Radar, Chart Plotters except for installation if installed by Composite Research), Steering Systems (excluding leaks after 10 hours), Electrical Panels, Pumps and Instrument Gauges originally supplied by Composite Research, for a period of 12 months or 100 hours, whichever comes first. Longer warranties may exist for Engine Controls, Cables, Harnesses or Key Switches, and Engine Brand Gauges via the outboard engine manufacturer. Stereos, Electronics, Chart Plotters, Radar and other similar devices are warrantied by their respective manufacturers and are explicitly excluded from any warranty by Composite Research).

Parts for Warranty Repair

Parts needed for Warranty Repair should be ordered from Composite Research. A Dealer may as needed choose to use inventory part(s) for warranty work. However, Composite Research will only allow up to the cost of original manufactured part(s) within a claim. Should parts be needed from Composite Research, every effort will be made to ship parts same day if ordered before 1PM EST.

Voided or Out of Warranty will result if:

  1. Any product which has been repaired or altered in any way by an unauthorized person.
  2. Any act of God. (I.e. storm damages, natural disasters)
  3. Composite Research is not notified of the warranty claim during the warranty period.

Inshore vs Offshore Fishing: The Real Deal

Call it what you will, blue-water fever, inshore, flats, we all have our preferences when it comes to our favorite species of fish and the waters we enjoy. As for how we get there, the styles of boats are endless from small skiffs or bay boats to large sport-fishing battle wagons.  What might not be clear to a would-be angler, what are the real, down and dirty differences between offshore and inshore fishing?

Continue reading

Operator’s Guide: Stepped Hull Boats

Purpose
The intent of this document is to provide a clearer understanding of the operational differences between a stepped-hull vessel and a traditional mono-hull style boat.  Specific attention is provided herein to the uses and adjustment of engine trim. As such, this guide assumes that the reader and/or boat operator has experience using throttle-based engine trim controls and is performing the recommendations herein under favorable weather and water conditions.  Towards this end, any reference to “trim” or “trimming” within this documents speaks directly to the outboard engine’s angle in the water, not the use of exterior-mounted trim tabs.

Benefits of a Stepped Hulls
A stepped hull design generally grants a boat with a larger degree of deadrise the ability to ride flatter in the water with a cruising height of approximately 3° bow up attitude.  The inclusion of steps assist the vessel in achieving more speed, with less horsepower, and improved fuel efficiency versus traditional hulls with the same horsepower.  Speaking purely on physics, when on plane, a stepped hull decreases the total wetted surface due to less contact points with the water and thereby lowers overall drag.  Given this, while in a turn, the reduction in drag will produce a smaller wake. The end result, a stepped hull will generally be more efficient, use less fuel, and obtain a higher top-end speed.

Default Trim Position at Cruise
When operating a stepped hull, engine trim should be set to 50-60% out for maximum efficiency as this puts the cavitation plate parallel with the water. In contrast, a traditional hull would run with an approximate 25% trim.

Deceleration
When backing off the throttle and as the boat begins to settle, start trimming your engine into the zero-trim position. The zero-trim position should be consider the default and used for the starting point for acceleration.

Accelerating to Plane
To rise up to plane, increase the throttle briskly and begin trimming the engine outward within just a few seconds of acceleration. As speed increases, the operator should continue to add trim until reaching the 50-60% position and an approximate cruising speed of *30 to 40 MHP. *This will vary from vessel to vessel and engine horsepower.

Turning On Plane
Once on plane, trim the engine ‘as needed’ until the steering feels light and responsive.  Understanding ‘feel’ is subjective, it is recommend taking multiple test runs to determine where your boat performs best.

Eliminate Bow Lift

Ideally, as the operator adds speed and trim simultaneously, the vessel will hold a 2° to 3° attitude. Translating from degrees to inches – from the helm position and looking forward, the forward-most point of the boat could be expected to rise approximately 6”.  When properly trimmed, the vessel should not exhibit any bow lift on the hole shot.

Trim & Turning
With a mono-hull, it’s common to trim the engine inward (tucked in) to increase bow bite. In contrast, a stepped-hull should stay closer to the normal running position of 50-60% as not to dig into the water.   The reason for this is during harder turns, the steps will lose their air induction within the inside hull vents and thereby increase wetted surface and cause drag. When this occurs, the operator should correct by adding throttle and keep the bow up.

Trim Tabs
Unless the vessel is experiencing wind induced heel, a need to correct a ballast heel, or the need to create a heel in windblown spray conditions, the operator will rarely have a need to use externally mounted trim tabs.

I’m installing a T-Top. Where are the aluminum plates under the deck of the FX21 Bay Sport?


The Aluminum plates need for installation are 12”x12” x1/4”. The placement of the plats can vary by up to 1” during the construction process.

During factory installation, T-Top foot pads are glued and sealed to the deck with 5200 or similar compounds. To further secure the part to the deck, we recommend a screw Length of 2” into the Aluminum, 1-1/2” if into the general laminate. Finally, the deck laminate schedule at the Aluminum plates is typically 1-1/2”.

Finally, a toggle bolt is not recommended in the subject areas due to limited clearance under the deck.

Notice:
The attached document and information within this article are to be used by marine professionals who plan to install a T-Top or Hard Top on the Sea Born FX21 Bay. Please note that adding third party parts and accessories may void your manufacturers warranty. As such, we strongly recommend you consult your local Composite Research, Inc. dealer prior to installation.

Still Unsure?
If you’re still undecided if a T-Top is right for you, be sure to check out our post, Boat Buying 101: Should I Add a T-Top to My New Boat?